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Winter in Chicago

Taking a trip to Chicago in January is not the best idea for someone like me who loves living in southern California.

N&F tapBut after the death of my friend Kathy last month, I welcomed an opportunity to go back and visit my parents where I used to live on Chicagoland’s North Shore. The wind off Lake Michigan took temperatures way down and I was right back to the frigid feeling I had when I was walking to school bundled up with several layers of socks, boots and Baggies on my feet. Of course, experience and seat warmers help and we made sure we had a wonderful time, so we took in a show at Lincolnshire’s Marriott Theatre, a preview of an Andrew Lloyd Webber tribute in song and dance, “Now and Forever: The Music of Andrew Lloyd Webber“, featuring highlights from the composer’s Evita, CATS, Jesus Christ Superstar, Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, Sunset Boulevard, and the world’s most successful musical, Phantom of the Opera. The show exceeded expectations, and while my dad made a new friend who cherished the rendition of “Just One Look” from Sunset Boulevard, my mom and I enjoyed the incredible tap dancing routine. There’s melancholy in Lloyd Webber’s work, and in Tim Rice’s lyrics, and half the production features songs from his lesser known musicals, but there is an unmistakable optimism amid the bitterness, too. The performance – the show runs through March 24 – made me want to see more of his musicals.

Between editorial and story conferences about planned new writing projects and articles for North Shore Weekend, with Editor-in-Chief David Sweet, I met new and old friends, including at Westfield’s Old Orchard, near where I used to canvass for John Porter and take the bus and the Skokie Swift to a job where I also had my first meeting with a literary agent. I recently finished writing a profile of musician Scott Bennett, which is scheduled to appear in the February 8 edition of North Shore Weekend (more news to come on other stories for the new suburban Chicago publication).

MSA long-ago friend invited me to attend a concert by Scottish singer-songwriter Midge Ure (a recovering alcoholic who co-wrote “Do They Know It’s Christmas?” and formerly of New Wave band Ultravox), which was a treat for this fan, though his voice gave out after pouring his soul into every tune. While he didn’t perform “Reap the Wild Wind”, a favorite romantic anthem, he gave a rousing, defiant rendition of “One Small Day”: “My sentimental friends/your time will come again…One day, where every hour could be a joy to me/And live a life the way it’s meant to be.” The Ultravox lead singer (“Hymn,” “The Voice”, “Vienna”) played the 400-seat Mayne Stage in Rogers Park on Morse Avenue, just off the El stop there, and it’s an impressive venue with outstanding service, good food – a cut above bar fare – and a solid, acoustically excellent experience. The wind was whistling on the Saturday night I attended, but I watched the valet attendant hustle his way to the cars and get the job done after the packed house let out. The Mayne Stage, located in a dodgy piece of real estate near the Catholic Loyola University on Chicago’s north side, opened as Morse Theater in 1912, showcasing vaudeville and movies. After a meticulous restoration and renovation by owner Jennifer Pritzker, and superior management by my friend Joe Prino, who used to co-own Smart Bar and Cabaret Metro on Wrigleyville’s Clark Street with Joe Shanahan, Mayne Stage is perfect for intimate shows. Look for jazz, cabaret, rock, comedy and classical bookings at this friendly Chicago theater. I know I’ll be returning for future engagements.

I flew to Chicago’s O’Hare Airport on Virgin America, America’s newest major (and my favorite) airline, and I had a great trip. But I could have done without the cold weather.

Christmastime in the Land of Enchantment

“It grows as it goes,” is the English translation of the Latin motto on New Mexico’s state seal, and a recent visit to the state’s capitol during Christmastime confirms the state’s (1912-2012) embrace of itself as a work in progress and a land of enchantment. Strolling Santa Fe’s narrow streets, with art galleries, posh hotels, a five and dime, tapas bar, creperie, courthouse, open Indian market and a couple of year-round Christmas shops, is a welcome departure from dealing with urban congestion. People are generally polite but private and, at least this December, they move briskly and with a sense of purpose. A visit to the state capitol, a day after the death of New Mexico’s Speaker of the House Ben Lujan, recalls the young state’s rich Indian history and, as I watched the capitol’s janitor lower the American flag and the last one out of the governor’s office turn out the lights (I interviewed a former New Mexico governor, Gary Johnson, when he ran for president last year), I was reminded how accessible a U.S. government can be. Seeing colorful glass works fired, blown, shaped, cut and crafted a bit north of town, as was recommended by my friend Godfrey, was a treat. Whether traveling on the government’s Southwest Chief passenger train through Albuquerque and Lamy, visiting the 19 pueblos inhabited by American Indians or indulging in the sight of Christmas luminaria lining the roofs of America’s second-oldest city in one of America’s newest states, celebrating its centennial statehood, a Christmastime trip to New Mexico is somehow at once wintry, American and, having endured a snowstorm in getting there, utterly enchanting.

Los Angeles: Hollyhock House by Frank Lloyd Wright

A recent tour of the Hollyhock House by architect Frank Lloyd Wright near my home featured breathtaking views of Los Angeles and a wealth of information about Wright (whose Prairie style home, studio and works I toured last year, as I wrote about here) and his client, leftist socialite Aline Barnsdall.

These tours usually skimp on details of the client’s life and abilities or they fail to cover the essential architectural points about the work and, happily, in this case, our guide Michael was fully informed about both. It was a group tour, so we had to keep moving through narrow passageways and up or down stairs in Wright’s first Los Angeles project, which was built between 1919 and 1923. Wright’s California Romanza style is fully realized – he used the musical term meaning “freedom to make one’s own form” – in house and garden on this 36-acre site. Ingeniously unfolding with unique spaces, innovations and studios for the purpose of an arts colony, Hollyhock included a plan for a theater, actors’ dormitory, shops and art studios and a motion picturehouse. That’s in addition to two secondary residences and the main house, which is what we toured one morning this spring.

Each major interior space adjoins an equivalent exterior space, connected either by glass doors, a porch, pergola or colonnade, as a handout instructs, and Wright himself did not supervise on site every day (he was away building the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo, Japan). There are dozens of tales of his son, Lloyd Wright, and his apprentice, Rudolph Schindler, who were designated by Wright to help. Other prominent modern architects who favored southern California, such as John Lautner and Richard Neutra, are mentioned. Look for Wright’s nearby Ennis House on another Hollywood hill within Hollyhock’s sights. And, according to the guide, the Hollywood Bowl shell owes to an original – and rejected – Wright design that had far superior acoustics.

That Hollyhock House, named for his client’s favorite flower, was designed for a left-wing lunatic named Aline Barnsdall (1882-1946) is of particular interest, as it appears that Wright may have promptly dispensed with her wildly inconsistent, contradictory demands and instead created what was best for an arts and theatrical colony based on earth. The raging, violent unwed mother and anarchist Barnsdall, who inherited her family’s oil fortune – her grandfather, William Barnsdall, drilled the second producing oil well in the United States (in Pennsylvania) – appears to have been as unstable as she was unhappy, bashing a lover’s head with a Monet painting and leaving her only child Betty, known as Sugartop for her blonde curls, without a father. Barnsdall apparently changed homes as often as she changed lovers, and the staunch anti-capitalist – she plastered her property with billboards for socialist Upton Sinclair – donated money to anarcho-terrorist Emma Goldman, who plotted to assassinate Carnegie Steel industrialist Henry Clay Frick and was linked to the assassination of President William McKinley. Throughout her life, Barnsdall railed against capitalism. She physically assaulted a visitor before dying of a heart attack. You can imagine little Sugartop running from room to room trying to escape her maniacal mother.

The house, gardens and grounds are magnificent as usual thanks to Frank Lloyd Wright. Sure, you’ll hear the typical comments and complaints – the leaks, the imperfections, the cost overruns – but the under-renovation Hollyhock is almost a hundred years old and it still captures the imagination with grace, privacy, purity of purpose and clean, elegant lines. It must seen and experienced, and, in tour guide Michael’s case, explained, to be rightly understood. There’s a goddess of hospitality, the first built-in entertainment center, seamless rooms, cork floors in the modern kitchen, and light bursting here and there with precision as southern California sunshine caresses the home from rise to set. The (group) tour’s climax is the livingroom, made for a grand fireplace, concrete art piece, moat with a footbridge to light the fire, grand piano, writing spots, reading room and a view of the city that emphasizes order, structure and straight lines extending to the Pacific Ocean.

Hollyhock house, part of Barnsdall Arts Park, is located at 4800 Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles 90027. Tours are available as of this writing Friday through Sunday every hour on the hour from 12:30 pm until the last tour at 3:30 pm and visitors are advised to arrive early. Groups of ten or more are asked to call for specific information and available times in advance: (323) 644-6269. Admission rates currently are $7 for general admission and $3 for seniors. If you go, remember that the house was commissioned by a woman whose money originated with the creative efforts of a man who drilled for oil in the Keystone state – and it was made by a genius with a single vision of his own.

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Travel: Borrego Springs

A spring break trip to the desert took me into the Borrego Valley. With decent lodging (Borrego Springs Resort) past a street called Frying Pan Road, I had a place to park between ventures into the badlands, California’s largest state park and the Salton Sea.

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is a heavily regulated nature preserve. For example, rules practically forbid dogs. The drive is an effort, with steep drops from winding roads, no rest stops or gas stations, and land that’s harsh, bare and with not a ranger in sight. Covering 500 miles of dirt roads, a dozen wilderness areas and miles of hiking trails, including Palm Canyon, where we spotted bighorn sheep (borrego in Spanish), the park, named for Spanish explorer Juan Bautista de Anza, hosts families, birdwatchers and naturalists. With mountain lions, wildflowers, roadrunners, iguanas, eagles, cacti, kit foxes, and mule deer as well as red diamond rattlesnakes, vultures and other wildlife, Anza-Borrego is a vast, wild desert. Located on the eastern side of San Diego County, with portions extending east into Imperial County and north into Riverside County, the state park is about a two-hour drive from San Diego, Riverside and Palm Springs, probably closer to four hours from Los Angeles. Borrego Springs is small and simple, not an enclave such as the communities of Coachella Valley. This valley and environs are friendly but guarded and conservative, with a clerk at the General Store telling me when I asked about a larger store, that there not only isn’t one; inhabitants don’t want competition because it would, in her words, put the General Store out of business. It isn’t hard to see how growth might affect the landscape and local merchants. The only grocery store closes at sundown.

Head out of town 30 miles to reach the stinky Salton Sea past the badlands, which are eerie and worth stopping for, and pack plenty of water because this land is dry. The Borrego Valley, which is dotted with and surrounded by Navy grounds, Indian lands and desolation, also has golf, swimming and recreational activities, so feel free to bring dirt bikes, campers, golf clubs, sunblock and binoculars for an immersion in – and interaction with – the desert.

Disney California Adventure

This year, Disneyland’s Disney California Adventure (DCA), which has changed the name from Disney’s California Adventure, finishes its long-planned makeover.

I first reported the changes here. The Little Mermaid attraction is one I am pretty sure I was the first journalist to call for back in 2006, when I made a case for it in my DVD review and asked Disneyland President Ed Grier about it in my column. This summer, DCA is scheduled to open Cars Land, Carthay Circle Theatre and the Buena Vista Street entry into the park, which is adjacent to Disneyland. A recent promotional feature – and Disney plants those everywhere – detailed the new additions, which will mark the completion of the studio’s five-year DCA expansion. Previous additions include Toy Story Mania, the laser/water World of Color show and the forementioned The Little Mermaid – Ariel’s Undersea Adventure. Disney also plans to open the unfortunately named Mad T Party this summer at DCA, with what the company describes as nighttime family fun inspired by Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland.

World of Color is fabulous when it’s logistically feasible and comfortable to experience – no small feat – and other additions are fine, and I’m especially excited by the new theater and the Buena Vista Street, in the hope that Imagineers, in studio parlance, considered my 2005 argument for honoring the creative spirit of California, including the tremendous achievements of Walt Disney. We shall see. But Cars Land – and readers may know that I’ve never been a fan of the Disney•Pixar series on which it’s based – sounds like a dud.

According to Disney, Cars Land sits on a 12-acre expansion which includes three all-new attractions, retail shops and food facilities, all built and inhabited by characters from the movie Cars (Sally, Ramone, Lightning McQueen and Mater), including Radiator Springs Racers, a twisting, turning, high-speed adventure through Ornament Valley and the town of Radiator Springs, “the cutest little town in Carburetor County.” The scenery is inviting enough. But apparently no one wins the race in the four-minute Radiator Springs Racers.

Or, rather, in the words of Imagineer Kathy Mangum: “When Guido and Luigi drop the flag, you take off out of the building at a high speed and now you’re racing each other side by side all around the mountain and the monuments, and it ends with a finish line where one of you wins. It’s always a random finish so you never know who’s going to win.” By my judgment, that’s a win without a victory, with no real chance for a guest of superior ability to win. It takes the race out of racing and spoils the fun of competition, the premise of racing. I know we live in an egalitarian age of scoreless children’s games and gradeless tests and courses, but I remember when racing bikes and go-karts and sprints across a field allowed people to compete in the benevolent spirit of play. Kids learned what it means to win, lose, practice, try harder and win the next time. They learned what it means to fail and, most important, they learned what it means to succeed – to be rewarded by effort – and win; to be good at something. This ride turns winning into a random accident. I may be wrong but I doubt boys and girls will want to repeat the experience of passively “racing” once they catch on to the fact that their most dedicated efforts to win are meaningless. Cars Land’s engine sounds like a killjoy.

Other Cars Land attractions will include Luigi’s Flying Tires, which may bear a resemblance to bumper cars, and Mater’s Junkyard Jamboree, where guests ride baby tractors as they whip to the left and right in rhythm to the music. Guests in this land also will enjoy new, “Cars”-themed dining and shopping locations such as Flo’s V8 Café, Radiator Springs Curios, Sarge’s Surplus Hut and Ramone’s House of Body Art.

Buena Vista Street sounds better than Cars Land. Disney reports that DCA guests will be welcomed through a new entry and onto Buena Vista Street, depositing guests into an atmosphere similar to what Walt Disney experienced upon first arriving in Los Angeles, California, in the 1920s. Buena Vista Street will feature Red Car Trolleys, inspired by the transportation system that once served Southern California, and the Carthay Circle Theatre, modeled after the site of the 1937 world premiere of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. Carthay Circle Theatre will become home to a new lounge and an elegant restaurant, designed to be DCA’s premier dining location. Imagineer Coulter Winn recently explained that the concept is to transform DCA’s entry into a period street, the way Main Street at Disneyland takes guests to Walt’s Midwestern hometown. “We decided to re-create the Los Angeles that Walt Disney experienced when he first arrived here in 1923,” Winn said, “a street that told the story of the first couple of decades of Walt’s experience in California. There are a couple of buildings that were re-created that are significant. The first is the entry turnstiles, which take design cues from the Pan-Pacific Auditorium that was designed in the 1930s by Welton Becket, a friend of Walt Disney’s. Walt went to Welton Becket in the ’50s when he was planning Disneyland, and Welton Becket told Walt that he already had all the talent he needed to do his Park at the studios. And that group of individuals that Walt picked later became Imagineering. So, that’s the Disney connection to the Pan-Pacific.”

As guests enter Buena Vista Street through the turnstiles, they come into a forecourt or a small town square, Winn said. “One of the main things we’ve done with Buena Vista Street is to introduce a ride onto the street, re-creating the California Red Car trolley network. So we have a Red Car stop at the front, and the Red Car runs between the Twilight Zone Tower of Terror and the entry to Buena Vista Street, with a total of four stops. What was formerly the Golden Gate Bridge we’re replacing with a re-creation of the Glendale-Hyperion Avenue Bridge. Hyperion Boulevard was where Walt Disney located one of his early animation studios. So, again, that has a connection to the story of The Walt Disney Company. As you proceed under the bridge, you get into a little bit more of an upscale recreation of early commercial Los Angeles, which took some of its design cues from Wilshire Boulevard and early Westwood.” Now, if Disney does manage to recreate an early vision of the lives and settings of singularly exceptional artists, such as Walt Disney, who sought to make money from their work, that would be a uniquely daring and amazing California adventure.